Gatomboya AA

Origin: Nyeri, Kenya

Process: Washed

Description: Sweet, Citrus, Black Tea

Sourcing Partner: Coffee Shrub

Information from Coffee Shrub:

Gatomboya is a coffee washing station, a wet mill, a coffee factory. By "factory", it doesn't mean it is industrial, aside from the coffee de-pulping machine. A "factory" is a wet mill where the coop members bring coffee cherry for pulping, fermenting, washing, drying. It's not the factory as we might imagine it. Small washing stations are aligned with a particular "society" which is what they call a cooperative in Kenya. We've had amazing lots of Gatomboya over the years, along with other Factories that are part of the same cooperative umbrella; Barichu FCS ("Farmers Cooperative Society). We keep returning to the societies who seem to regularly produce some of the best Kenya coffees we see, and Barichu is one we've sourced from for about as long as we've been buying Kenyan coffee direct. Farms in this region span an altitude range of 1400 to 2000 meters above sea level, and are planted in SL-28, and SL-34 bourbon types, as well as Ruiru 11, and some Batian. This is an AA separation, or "outturn" as they're called in Kenya. That just means it's the largest seed size separation from a process batch of coffee. AA's measure a minimum of 17/64", and typically top out at 19/64". AB are the next size down, and we also buy a lot of peaberries (the small round seeds). Of all the different grades, AA's command the highest price, and we felt this lot was worth it.

The dry fragrance of this AA Gatomboya has vanilla-accented sweetness, with hints of melon, tangerine, and ginger tea. A shade darker produces more of a grape-like fruit tone along with an orange peel and coconut juice note. I get some roast tones in the wet aroma, along with hints of honey, and dark fruit. At City roast level, the cup has transparent sweetness like simple syrup, along with citrus notes that go from pulpy to rind-y and slightly bittering. Light hints of tangerine, apricot, and shaved lemon come through as the coffee cools, with aspects of tannic tea lending to some tightening elements in the finish. Gatomboya has a well defined acidic snap, akin to pomelo or pink grapefruit. It illuminates the flavor profile, and brings a bracing quality to the cup. The brightness is tamed a little at darker roast levels, but thankfully remains prevalent, far from flattening out altogether. Citrus and dark fruits are prime attributes - Blood orange, cranberry, and hints of tart plum. You're able to develop a surprising amount of cocoa flavors too, like high % cacao bar as you reach Full City. If you like bright espresso, Gatomboya is a great option. It's truly tongue-twisting though, and not for the faint-hearted!